When in Rome

Pizza at Piacere Molise (Photo: Stephanie Jat)

Recently, I had the opportunity to spend a week in Rome, holed up in an adorable, cozy little B&B near Roma Termini, the central train station. I decided to skip the standard “touristy” spots, having no desire to fight tooth and nail for a shred of self-respect amongst the throngs of international visitors. Instead, I spent my time roaming the streets for the underrated beauty of this ancient, “Eternal” city. The poet Tibullus was actually the first to refer to the walls aeternae urbis “of the Eternal City” in his Elegies in the 1st century BC, a coinage which became popular under the rule of Augustus and Virgil’s Aeneid.

Food and Drink

When you think of Italy, you probably immediately think of the HEAVENLY food on offer. The problem is, when you’re spoiled for choice, with pizzerias on every corner, how do you choose where to go?

I stuffed myself full of carbs and cheese and gelato during my time in Rome, and here is the shortlist of the places I would ABSOLUTELY recommend.

Something savoury:

Emma’s does “the best pizza in Rome” (source: my Italian friend who wishes to remain unnamed). This pizzeria is tucked away on Via Monte della Farina, close to Piazza Navona. They have an entire “bufala” section on their pizza menu, which, by the way, is three pages long. Their dough is specially mixed by Pierluigi Roscioli, a member of a family of famous bakers. I can vouch for it: the dough is simultaneously light and full of texture, it would be a crime to let any go to waste. It might be a good idea to book in advance though – the outdoor seating has at least a one hour waiting time!
Pasta In Corso does set meals of pasta, a drink and a slice of pie! You can choose from more than five different types of pasta, and their pie is handmade from scratch. Their portion sizes are generous, and the prices are more than reasonable. With a motto like “La vita è una combinazione di pasta e magia”, their pasta will not disappoint.
If you’re in the mood for something a little more romantic, and you don’t mind going a bit out of town, Piacere Molise is a small restaurant close to the Vatican, which serves all-Italian fare, from amazing pizzas to great second courses, and an unmatched tiramisù.

Something sweet:

The Gelatist was my favourite ice cream stop. Not only did they have a pick-and-mix of toppings, you also get to pick three flavours for the mere price of €2.50. They have a range of fantastic flavours, from the more traditional stracciatella (milk gelato with chocolate chips), to fun modern combinations like mela e cannella (apple and cinnamon), as well as gluten free or refined sugar free options – who could resist?

In a rush?

Pizza al taglio is a very local way to buy pizza – these pizzas are baked in large rectangles and sold in slices. Best for when you’re in a hurry, or want to try more than one combination of toppings! Don’t worry about looking for them – you’ll see at least a couple down every street.

Sights

Rome is famous for its sights, but most of them are constantly swarming with tourists. Instead, here are a selection of “must sees” which the guidebooks don’t mention:

1. Nighttime riverbank stroll

Grab a friend and a hot drink, and take a walk by the River Tiber at night. There are buskers on the bridge, and the lights sparkling against Castel Sant’Angelo make the view truly stunning.

2. Otherwise Bookshop

Hidden in plain sight to the south of Piazza Navona is a snug little bookshop which sells a mix of English and Italian books, both new and second hand. They have sofas for you to grab a read and curl up for the afternoon, and if you need a recommendation, the kind shop assistants will be more than happy to help. They often do discount deals, as well as sections with special themes, such as a poetry corner this Christmas.

3. The Baths of Diocletian

Ever wanted to see Roman graffiti, tombstones, or original Roman writing? Head towards the train station, opposite which you’ll find the museum of the Baths of Diocletian. The building has retained its original architecture, and boasts a beautifully kept garden which displays artifacts from the history of the Republic through to the Empire. On the second floor, you’ll find relics of curse tablets thrown into the Peregrina fountain, used for seeking favour with the gods against their mortal enemies (even charioteers!). Hours could easily be spent exploring this collection, which promises treasures you’ll be sorry to miss!

Graffiti on display at the Baths of Diocletian (Photo: Stephanie Jat)

Examples of reconstructions of and original curse tablets (Photo: Stephanie Jat)

Experience

Scattered around Rome are scooters, which can be rented through a mobile app. Rent one for a quick tour around the city, or to save time travelling around. You can pick one up from almost every street, and park them back when you’re done. They’re all electric, but be sure to wear a helmet to keep safe!

When roaming the streets, watch where you’re going! Examples of graffiti like the ones above are dotted all over the city, guaranteeing a fun journey of art spotting. (Photo: Stephanie Jat)

All in all, Rome is a beautiful city full of gems hidden by the more well-known tourist traps. All you have to do is take the road less travelled by, get a cappuccino and explore the streets for yourself – when in Rome, right?