Bite-sized Travel Guide: Florentine Cuisine

Though more well-known for its Renaissance architecture and galleries containing the likes of Michelangelo’s David, Florence is also home to some of the best Italian food to experience. From the rich bistecca alla Fiorentina to the humble lampredotto, a sandwich made with cows’ innards, Florence has a great variety of traditional dishes to offer. This guide will provide you with an insight into the history of these dishes, as well as my own recommendations for the best gelaterias and pizzerias in the city.  

Walking along the old streets of Florence, you might stumble upon long, meandering queues of hungry tourists waiting in line for a panino. Paninerias can be found in several locations around the city, with the most famous being ‘All’Antico Vinaio’, which has become a true institution in Florence loved by both tourists and Florentine locals. They have several different shops, in which expert sandwich-makers speedily take orders and slice up slivers of mortadella to put inside the traditional Tuscan schiacciata bread. Though the bread itself is understated and quite frankly bland, the filling combinations are endless, ranging from the rich schiacciata del boss containing truffle cream and pecorino, to the fiery, chilli-filled l’inferno. My personal favourite was la favolosa, containing artichoke and pecorino cream topped with grilled aubergine. If you fancy skipping the queues and opting for something a bit more low-key, ‘Pino’s’ is a fantastic option. Here, the sandwiches are sold for a much more modest price with simpler, but still delicious fillings.  

The famous schiacciata dell boss from All’Antico Vinaio

Perhaps the most famous Florentine dish is the bistecca alla Fiorentina. This humongous cut of beef has a history supposedly as old as Florence itself, with its origins supposedly going back to the Middle Ages. The place of steak in Florentine gastronomy cannot be understated, with tourists from all around the world coming to the city to try the Tuscan cut, as well as being enjoyed by locals. In the 1950s there was a political party dedicated to the dish, known affectionately as the ‘Steak Party’, with its slogan ‘meglio una Bistecca oggi che un impero domani’ (‘Better a steak today than an empire tomorrow’). The satirical party promised a daily steak for every citizen, and its anthem was even made up of cows’ moos.  The bistecca alla Fiorentina is definitely a dish for carnivores, aged for at least two weeks and cooked with the al sangue (‘blood’ cooking’) method.

A true Tuscan steak

In keeping with the meat theme, a popular meal here is Pappardelle al Cinghiale, a traditional pasta dish made with wild boar. There are lots of wild boar roaming through the Tuscan hills, hence why there are many dishes centred around the animal. As a symbol of Tuscany, images of boars can be found throughout Florence. In the middle of the city, you will find a little bronze piglet statue and hopeful visitors rub its snout for good luck. Pappardelle al Cinghiale can be found in most restaurants around Florence, but a stand-out one is ‘Osteria Cinghiale Bianco’. I first learned of this through Stanley Tucci’s programme, but it definitely lived up to my expectations. This Osteria is a very traditional Tuscan restaurant with an extensive menu offering various dishes, as well as many different types of grappa for post-dinner drinks.  

There are a few unusual dishes on offer such as lampredetto and trippa, as well as cervello fritto (fried brain). These dishes have humble origins, originating as food for Florentine peasants. Nowadays they are usually served as street food in the form of a roll with a spicy salsa verde sauce on top. Though I can’t claim to have tried these dishes, they certainly seem to be popular with the locals and for this reason . I would be tempted to try them if you are brave.  

Of course, a guide dedicated to Italian food wouldn’t be complete without pizza… Though Florentine pizza is not as famous as that of Naples, some delicious pizza can still be found in the city. After trying a few slightly disappointing pizzerias I had nearly given up hope on finding a great pizza in Florence, until I stumbled upon a restaurant by the name of ‘Tiratissima’. Here, square slices of pizza are served on long, raised boards, perfect for sharing. Perhaps it was because of the scarcity of high-quality pizza in Florence, but often I still catch myself dreaming about Tiratissima’s sweet, caramelised red onion and sausage pizza.

Finally, like many Italian cities, Florence too has claimed to have invented gelato. Though this may not be true, lovely, authentic gelaterias are still abundant in Florence. Established in 1929, ‘Bar Vivoli’ is said to be the oldest in the city, and has many traditional gelato flavours. But, be warned as they do not offer cones, only cups! In other gelaterias around the city, there are more unusual flavours on offer such as black sesame and cinnamon. A personal favourite is ‘Edoardo il Gelato Biologico’, located in Piazza del Duomo, offering a great selection of delicious, organic ice-creams. In my opinion, a post-dinner gelato from one of these gelaterias is the perfect way to end a day in Florence, as you amble along the riverside in the light of the Ponte Vecchio.  

 
All images belong to the author, unless otherwise stated.