Cafe Love Letters: Exploring the Streets of Lyon through its Coffee-House Culture

*Anahera Cafe, Lyon. All images belong to author.*

When travelling, some like to see the sights or appreciate the culture, others just enjoy absorbing the ambience of a place. While studying in Lyon, I learned to do all at once by exploring this city’s amazing cafe scene. I started my adventures in Columbus Coffee, almost the French equivalent of Starbucks. After a couple of comparatively sad Columbus-filled weeks, I saw the error of my ways and broadened my horizons. I got myself on the metro (highly efficient!) and tried to unearth the best spots for hot chocolates, chai lattes, cake, cookies and overall vibes as a side dish to my sporadic studying. I was not disappointed. I managed to escape the fairly grey ENS and find the colourful cafes which litter Lyon’s streets. Over the months, this became one of the many highlights of my brief séjour in France’s second city. What I present is by no means an exhaustive list of amazing cafes in Lyon— I’m sure there are too many to try! The following cafés are, however, how I experienced Lyon and how I will choose to remember it. From the winding streets of the Croix Rousse, to the hidden havens of the Guillotière and everywhere in between…

*A sad start at Columbus Coffee. Pictured: chai-flavoured ice cream mush I didn’t order? All images belong to author.*

Nuage Café: For all the boissons gourmandes you could ever wish for

As my first Lyonnais cafe revelation, Nuage will always occupy a special place in my year abroad experience. A trip to the Croix Rousse market, window shopping in the area’s artisanal shops and lunch at Nuage became my regular quiet Saturday plan. With its eclectic interior, funky tables, and coffee facts all over the wall (Beethoven did, in fact, start his day drinking a cup of coffee brewed with exactly 60 coffee beans), Nuage doesn’t just invite you in, it encourages you to stay for hours. Not only can you embrace the French vibes with a delicious crepe, you can also explore different cuisines with Nuage’s brunch, which changes nationality every month. Of the many drinks on offer, I personally recommend the chai latte— equipped with cinnamon stick, star anise and your very own maple syrup masterpiece. This is definitely the place to go if you’re a fan of latte art. However, this small cafe’s showstopper is its cheesecake. “Is its main ingredient cocaine?” my friend asked when she first tasted this sweet treat. Alas, we will never know, but this cheesecake alone is enough to merit a trip to Nuage.

Kafé Stockholm: For all the perfect Scandi vibes

Lyon’s secret Swedish corner opened up about a month before I left France. It gradually became my second home and, most definitely, my favourite cafe in Lyon. Although I love all things French, Kafé Stockholm filled the Swedish hole that I didn’t know I had in my life. In my opinion, it covers all bases. Its effortlessly cool interior gives intense Scandinavian vibes, without the generic quality of Ikea— a special mention going to the Abba posters in the toilets. Their Kanelbulle will put literally any other cinnamon roll that you’ve ever had to shame, and their selection of varied cakes always offers something new for the tastebuds. There’s also something for everyone in their open Swedish sandwiches— the vegan Linne is a feast for the eyes, but their Garbo (potato salad and smoked salmon) was often my personal go to. I also want to point out that Kafé Stockholm is a family run business with, from what I could tell, three generations working there. They always welcomed me into their little Swedish haven and, for this reason, Kafé Stockholm will be my first stop when I return to Lyon.

⚠️ Pro tip: Nuage and Kafé Stockholm are conveniently located right next-door to each other — turn your cafe trip into a cafe crawl and explore them both!

Au bonheur des chats: For cuddly coffee companions

Before I even went to this cafe, it had already gained brownie points in my eyes, its name being a play on the title of one of my favourite books, Au bonheur des dames. Over the course of the semester, I similarly became a regular here and returned for two things: their iced chocolate (with hazelnut milk) and to pretend I have a cat. For this reason, I spent many happy hours studying with a sleeping cat on my lap, or on my laptop for that matter (Gyoza and Vénus will always have a special place in my heart). This vegan cafe also boasts an impressive brunch and delicious cakes and cookies, but, in my opinion, it is their drinks that steal the show. From Matcha lattes, to funky juices, to my classic iced chocolate, you’re sure to find something you like here. Other than the occasional ‘FERMEZ LA PORTE S’IL VOUS PLAÎT’ (to avoid escapees), Au bonheur des chats is a sanctuary of cat love and fur therapy, which, if you like cats, will always hit the spot.

*Gyoza making herself at home at Au bonheur des chats*

Anahera: For a cozy, colourful cafe adventure

At a stone’s throw from Saxe Gambetta (one of the easier metro stops to get to from the ENS), Anahera became one of my go-to study spots and is possibly the cosiest cafe I’ve ever been to. Most of its seating is on a mezzanine, surrounded by a plant pergola, lit with cozy lamps and furnished with ramshackle chairs, tables, squishy sofas and even board games and books if you want to fully embrace the escapism (or procrastinate studying). It very much fits its self-declaration as an urban oasis, a hidden corner far away from the Guillotière. I personally stepped away from my comfort zone in this cafe and broadened my horizons… That is to say, I ordered something other than a hot chocolate, cold chocolate or chai lattes in their various forms (shock horror!). Their golden and ruby lattes felt almost exotic, and paired with the sweet potato and chocolate bundt cake, I definitely found my more adventurous side in this cafe, which is never a bad thing!

*Golden lattes and sweet treats at Anahera*

Comme à la maison: For the CALM vibes

This salon de thé really adopts its initials, calm. Its lofi beats (or Christmas jazz, if you’re there at the right time of year) are perfect for studying. This is helped by the fact that it is largely used as a co-working cafe during the day, so very much encourages productivity. CALM made one of the best hot chocolates I had in Lyon and its sweet selection did not disappoint either. When I first went, I was pleased to see moelleux au chocolat (essentially delicious melting middle chocolate puddings), sesame seed cookies and, in the words of a friend, another “banging cheesecake”. If you’re on the search for somewhere to relax, enjoy a quiet moment or read, CALM is also a perfect setting. Its big windows allow for subtle people watching and its soft sofas by the window invite you to give into the classy coffee house feel it offers.

*Pictured: The ‘banging cheesecake’ mentioned above.*

An honourable mention: À chacun sa tasse

I’ll conclude this short list by briefly mentioning À Chacun sa tasse. I only went here once, to escape the rain on a cold Lyonnais day, so I can’t say too much (I’ll leave it up to you to discover instead!). However, this cozy corner near the Croix Rousse is perhaps where I had my objectively best chocolat chaud lyonnais. Made with melted chocolate, their offering filled my chocolate craving, with just enough room to try one of their white chocolate cookies, which was similarly delicious! This is definitely worth a visit if you’re in the area!

I hope you’ll find my little Lyonnais summary useful if you ever make a trip to Lyon! I certainly enjoyed researching it… Lyon is famous for many things: its rivers, cathedrals, street art and eclectic mix of old and new. It is perhaps most well known, however, as the gastronomical capital of France. As you may be able to tell from this article, I firmly believe that Lyon cannot just be summarised in its cuisine and wine. With its flourishing coffee house culture, it should also be considered the cafe capital of France, if not maybe even Europe. I can’t wait to go back and experience it all again.