Sangria and the City III: Life’s a Pitch
The Home of the Holy Grail, the Cradle of Paella, the City of Cyclists. Mary Brown documents her Year Abroad in Valencia in this column, exploring both the haute culture and slightly sillier offerings of the city. This week, she details her trip to watch Valencia CF play Raya Vallecano in La Liga.
(Image credits to Mary Brown)
As a lifelong Everton fan, there’s nothing I love more than watching a struggling top-flight team with unpopular owners muddle their way through a season. This has made Valencia CF feel like a home away from home for the past few months. I have been to the Mestalla Stadium to watch Los Ches twice and am excited to be heading there again next week.
It was rather strange arriving at the Mestalla for the first time on a match day given that it’s only 200 yards from my classes at the University of Valencia. Unlike many British stadia, it is surrounded by apartment blocks in a lively and vibrant part of the city. It’s fascinating to see how several tens of thousands of spectators deftly navigate such an enclosed environment. The first time I went, we were sat in the North section. As we climbed the stairs to reach our vomitorium, I noticed through the wire mesh just how high we were going. I am positively terrified of heights so I did my best to focus on how excited I was for my first La Liga tie.
Unfortunately, my fears were not allayed when we went to take our seats. I thankfully didn’t know beforehand that the North section is famous for how steep it is, even featuring in a BBC News article of ‘Some of the world’s scariest places to play or watch football’. It was a precipice. I couldn’t even see my end’s goal while seated. Luckily, my friends took my mind off the abject terror I was feeling. Once I acclimatised to my setting, I appreciated just how unique and interesting the structure of the stadium truly is.
This author stayed ROOTED in her seat at the expense of a view of the action (Image credits to Mary Brown)
Similar to many historic clubs, the Mestalla is more than just a stadium, it’s a club institution. Opened in 1923, it is the oldest stadium of any Spanish First Division team and it originally had a capacity of just 17,000 (compared to the 49,430 it can seat today). Whilst construction of a new stadium began in 2007, this was halted due to the severe financial crisis plaguing the club, namely its poor management and huge debt problems. On a more positive note, it was announced in January 2025 that construction has resumed and is estimated to be completed in time for the 2027-2028 season. Los Ches will hope that new surroundings might allow them to escape the club’s dwindling fortunes in recent years.
In its century-long existence, Valencia CF has been no stranger to the highest highs and lowest lows. The 1940s, 1970s, and early 2000s were zeniths for the team: Copa del Rey and La Liga titles abounded. Yet, the 1984-1985 season brought the club’s first and, so far at least, only relegation in its 102-year history and the past 15 years have been miserable for the club’s fans
Three new Valencia CF fans! (Image credits to Mary Brown)
The 2010s were a decade of severe financial crisis for the club, forcing them to sell star players such as David Villa (to Barcelona) and David Silva (to Manchester City) in order to service their immense debt. Nonetheless, much of the more recent strife stems from the lightning rod that is Peter Lim’s ownership since 2014. The Singaporean businessman is reviled by fans for a litany of crimes against Valencia: peculiar managerial appointments, a lack of inspired transfer window decisions, and his disdain towards the Valencian local government and fans. Searching for a 10th permanent manager in less than nine years makes Valencia CF seem more British government than La Liga powerhouse. Nevertheless, perhaps Lim can’t be blamed for not understanding the gravity of such mismanagement: he hasn’t been to a Valencia match since December 2019, after all.
He’s definitely missing out: match day at the Mestalla is a fantastic experience. The intense atmosphere is a privilege to experience, with the use of the Valencian language in the announcements reminding you of the strong sense of regional idenity. The most recent match I went to was a 1-0 win against Seville and, despite the rain, the atmosphere was palpable. During a VAR check on a penalty, I’ve never heard such loud and sustained whistling and booing. After the decision was overturned, the crowd were as ecstatic as if Valencia had scored a blinder.
A rainy night at the Mestalla (Image credits to Mary Brown)
I have really cherished my trips to the Mestalla and it’s been a great opportunity to explore another facet of Valencian culture. The camaraderie, community spirit, and rich history is inescapable. So, if you’re in Valencia with 30€ (and no fear of heights), I’d recommend you don a Valencia scarf and head on down to the Mestalla.