Manchester United vs Manchester City, Inter vs A.C. Milan, Paris Saint-Germain (PSG) vs… who? Such is the puzzle of France’s capital. Unlike other European football metropolises, there is no local derby, just the PSG hegemony and a slew of smaller clubs duking it out in lower leagues. However, one club based in the 13th Arrondissement, Paris F.C., is climbing the French footballing pyramid to hopefully ignite an intra-city rivalry.

I step into the metro carriage. It is quiet, as expected on a cold November afternoon. I ride the line 11 almost all the way to the ring road surrounding the city, which squeezes its 2.1 million inhabitants into a space suited for half that number. The metro line is faster than those I’m used to; the carriage sways uncertainly, as if it could topple at any moment. There’s a woman sitting opposite eating chicken wings from a grease-stained bag and the man perched next to me is watching an American sitcom with French subtitles, smiling slightly at his large phone screen.

The Vélib’ beeps, confirming my departure. I mount the bike and pedal slowly down Avenue René-Coty. I want to savour this moment: the slight chill of the breeze and my relative anonymity compared to the couples chatting in the bars along my route; a quiet period of self-reflection before the night begins.